Turkey series 5 - Kusadasi and Ephesus

KUSADASI AND EPHESUS

Hello friends! Happy new year 2023. Welcome back to the next part in the Turkey series. Did you enjoy Troy? Or was it boring? C'mon, let me know in the comments. For now, let's move on. From the north-western part of Turkey, we now move to the western part, along the coast of Aegean Sea, to a city known as Kusadasi. Let's dive in.

Kusadasi, as I said, is a resort town on the Aegean Sea. It is a popular tourist spot, especially for the Europeans. Largely, people from Italy, Greece, Croatia etc come over to Kusadasi for holidays.

(The town of Kusadasi)

A lot of cruise ships anchor here in Kusadasi parrying passengers from Europe. The town also has a good number of pubs, casinos and resorts. It also has a very good night life, so parties keep happening here.

(Map showing Kusadasi and Ephesus)

Kusadasi is about 100 km from Izmir, the third largest city in Turkey. There are a lot of flights to Izmir and one can catch a cab or bus to Kusadasi from here. There is also a small airport in Kusadasi but very few flights ply here. This being a resort town has no dearth for accommodation. Since the town attracts Europeans, European food is quite familiar here. Oranges and Tangerines are very famous here. One can see oranges grown on medians on streets. Also, another famous product here is the leather. Leather products are exported from here and major brands like Gucci, Michael Kors etc use Turkish leather, manufactured in this region. Now, why is Kusadasi important that I had to bring it up here? The main reason is Ephesus. Let's now see what Ephesus is.

EPHESUS

Ephesus is an ancient Greek city and an UNESCO protected site. It is located in the Selcuk region about 20kms from Kusadasi. As I mentioned in my previous blog, there are 3 ancient cities in Turkey and Ephesus being one, Troy and Hierapolis the other two. Ephesus was considered as one the seven wonders of ancient world. Ephesus was found in the 10th century BC by the Greeks. It is believed to have founded by Greek prince Androklos. However, some historians believe that the Ephesus was found by Ephos, the queen of Amazons (yes, the same Amazons as Wonder Woman). 

Ephesus was also an important center in Christianity. It is said that Mother Mary, the mother of Jesus, last stayed in Ephesus. The House of the Virgin Mary here in Selcuk, is considered to be her last home. It is an important pilgrimage center for Roman Catholics. Also, there are ruins of Basilica of St.John in the Ayasuluk Castle. There are a lot of monuments/structures here. I will take you through some of them along with pictures.
 

Temple of Artemis:

The temple of Artemis was dedicated to the Greek Goddess Artemis and the great Anatolian Goddess Kybele. This temple was one of the largest structures during the time and was considered one of the seven wonders of the world. However, due to climatic changes over the years, only a pillar can be seen now. This is located about 5kms from the main Ephesus city.

(The ruins of temple of Artemis- the Ayasuluk castle in the backdrop)

(Pathway to temple of Artemis)

(The pillar of the temple of Artemis)

As we enter the Ephesus city, one can notice the ruins. We start with the streets of the city before moving in. For any major city to be constructed, there are 3 main features required - a drinking water source, mountains around for protection, a port for trade and commerce. All three were readily available here in Ephesus. It is said that there was a river flowing here and one can see the canals dug up here. The port, which is now in Kusadasi, was believed to be near Ephesus. There are surrounding mountains which provided natural protection.

(Ruins are Ephesus - This is said to be homes of ministers/privileged)

(A street view - notice the hill on the left side)

(Once upon a time a jail)

Ephesus has given us a lot of symbols that we see even today. Below is the symbol of medical science. This logo was used to denote that medicines were administered here.

And below is the carving of Greek Goddess Nike. Doesn't the name sound too familiar? Yes, it is same as the shoe brand Nike. Carefully observe that even the Nike logo (the tick mark) can be derived from this carving.

(Pillars found at the ruins)

(Parliament like structure)

From the entrance, as we pass the streets, we reach a structure where parliamentary affairs were discussed. It looks like a small amphitheatre, similar to the one we saw in Troy (pic above).

(The elevation of the city of Ephesus)

A popular tradition among the Greeks were that the kings were considered Gods. And thus, there were temples built to honor their kings. 

(The pillars were the temple of Androklos - their first king)

(Temple of Hadrian)

(A water fountain)

However, the major attraction here is the Library of Celsus. This was built in the Roman period in the memory of Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, who was a governor of the region. The structure was mostly built by his son Julius Aquila. Celsus was buried here beneath this structure.

The library once held 12,000 scrolls and was one of the largest libraries in the world in those times. Now, only the façade remains and behind there are just ruins. Although, the structure seems two-floored, it is a single storied building.  One can see this façade on the back of the 20 Lira note.

(Library of Celsus)

(Pillar ruins along the library)

Another major structure is the huge open amphitheatre. It was the biggest theatre at the time with a capacity of 25,000 people. This number means that the theatre was a place not only for its residents but also travellers and traders. Initially, this place was used for entertainment where dramas and musical shows were conducted. Later, gladiator wars were also staged here.

(The amphitheatre)

Ephesus is also famous for its cats. They are colorful and one can see lots of them around the area. Can you guess the name of the most famous Ephesus cat? Clue: we have known it from our childhood in the form of comics. Yes, it is Garfield.

(Ephesus cats)

Ephesus is a very important place in Greek as well as Turkish history. Religiously and culturally, Ephesus, and Selcuk, has grown into a prominent tourist spot. If you are a history person, Ephesus is a place to visit. This place has structure that are not seen elsewhere. So, don't miss Ephesus when in Turkey. I loved this place. Ok then enough of history. Let's move on to something interesting in my next blog. Keep waiting for that. Until then signing off.

If you haven't read my previous blogs, here are the link for you:

Troy
Cappadocia
Istanbul
Hot Air Balloon

Turkey series 4 - Canakkale and Troy

 CANAKKALE

Welcome back friends to this new blog. How has the journey through Turkey so far? Enjoyable? Let me know in the comments. Now let's move further on in the country. If you are a geek, the next couple of blogs are for you. Especially, if you are a history fanatic, these blogs could interest you. Far from all the beautiful hot air balloon rides and pigeon homes and rock formations, we now move to the northwestern part of Turkey, to another port city called Canakkale (pronounced as sha-na-kale). 

As I mentioned in my previous blog, Turkey is the gateway to Europe from Asia. A part of Turkey is in Europe. There are six ways one can pass to Europe from Asia via land. Three are in Istanbul across the Bosphorus strait (2 bridges and a railway line). The other three are in the Canakkale region across the Dardenelles strait. One of them is a bridge across the Sea of Marmara and two are via ferries. The ferries also operate at two points - one a Gelibolu and other at Eceabat.

(Map showing Canakkale and Dardanelles strait)

(Eceabat port)

(Ferry from Eceabat to Canakkale)

(Ferry carrying trucks)

(Ferry at Gelibolu)

(Bridge across Dardanelles strait)

(The beautiful sea of Marmara)

Gallipoli

Before I move to Canakkale city, I want to take you to another place enroute - Gallipoli. This is a small peninsula in Turkey with historical significance. This region was a battlefield during the first World War. The European powers mainly the British, French and Russia saw that the Dardanelles strait was weakly protected and hence sought to attack from this end to weaken the Ottoman empire. However, the due presence of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, who was the commander of the army here, made sure that the European powers could not get beyond this point. It was an astounding victory for the Turkish army. This battle further laid the foundation for an independent country called the Republic of Turkey in 1923, when Ataturk became the founder and president of modern Turkey thus ending the Ottoman rule.

This region is now a burial site for all the soldiers who participated in the war. There is a separate burial site for ANZAC - Australia and New Zealand army corporation. These were soldiers from Australia and New Zealand who fought for the British against the Ottoman army. It is said that there were so many soldiers who actually did not know who they were fighting for and why. It is is also believed that although the two armies were in war, there was always mutual help between the two sides. In this burial site, there is burial ground of three Indian soldiers too who were part of the war.

(ANZAC commemorative site) 

(Indians burial site)

A letter was written by Ataturk to ANZAC soldiers who fought during the war. The words are heart-warming. I would like to add that letter here:

"THOSE HEROES THAT SHED THEIR BLOOD

AND LOST THEIR LIVES...

YOU ARE NOW LYING IN THE SOIL OF A FRIENDLY COUNTRY

THEREFORE REST IN PEACE

THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE JOHNNIES

AND THE MEHMETS TO US WHERE THEY LIE SIDE BY SIDES

HERE IN THIS COUNTRY OF OURS...

YOU, THE MOTHERS

WHO SENT THEIR SONS FROM FAR AWAY COUNTRIES

WIPE AWAY YOUR TEARS,

YOUR SONS ARE NOW LYING IN OUR BOSOM

AND ARE IN PEACE.

AFTER HAVING LOST THEIR LIVES ON THIS LAND

THEY HAVE BECOME OUR BONS AS WELL"

ATATÜRK, 1934

(A letter from Ataturk to ANZAC soldiers)

(Mesmerizing views along the route)

There is also another site to commemorate Ottoman soldiers too. A few minutes away from the ANZAC site, is this site where many Ottoman soldiers are laid down. There is not one, but multiple such sites can be seen along the way. Also, along the way, one can see the trenches used by both armies to traverse and hide when under attack.

(Burial ground for Ottoman soldiers)

(View from top - Dardanelles strait can be seen in the far back drop)

(Statue of Ataturk)

(Trenches used by soldiers)

Canakkale

Canakkale is a port city on the north-western side of Turkey. Formerly known as Dardanelia, the city is one of the major places for Gallipoli and Troy visits. The pottery here is very popular. 

(The city of Canakkale)

(Sunset across the strait)

(Sunrise)

Troy

The major tourist attraction in Canakkale is the ancient city of Troy. There are three ancient cities in Turkey and Troy is one of them. The city dates back 3500 BCE. The city of Troy is not just at one level, but rather there are 9 levels. In the sense, each level is a city in itself and is built on top of the previous one. One can see numbers in Roman numerals, which suggests which city it is. The most well-developed city is the second city. The place became popular after Brad Pitt's movie with the same name Troy. The city is known for the Trojan war between Trojans and the Greeks. In honor of that movie, a replica of the Trojan horse is placed at the entrance of this ancient city. Troy was also the first place to host a beauty pageant contest. The surrounding mountain range - Mount Ida, was the place where the beauty contest was first held.

(Pots used in Troy)

(Ancient city of Troy)

(Cisterns and heater places)

(A palace wall)

(Amphitheatre)

(A second city palace wall)

(Layers marked with different cities)

(Cemetries)

(Mount Ida at the backdrop)

(Trojan horse)

Canakkale is around 300km from Istanbul. Many buses ply here and one can catch a ferry at Eceabat to reach Canakkale. There is also a small airport where flights from Istanbul and Ankara can be availed. Since, this is a major urban center, there is no dearth for accommodation options. A lot of hotels are available here. As I said, if you are a fan of history, Canakkale is a place I would recommend. Let me know what you think of this place in the comments. See you soon in the next blog. 

If you haven't read my previous blogs, here are the link for you:

Cappadocia
Istanbul
Hot Air Balloon